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Wandering the streets of my dear Paris this week, I rediscovered the enchanting combination of gourmandise and art that the City of Light reveals on a regular basis!
Looking for a snack for the movies near Pompidou, I happened upon La Pistacherie, specialist in “fruits de la coque,” literally “fruits of the shell” or, for the less poetically inclined, “nuts.” Founded by Charles Sakr, a well-known Italian antiques dealer of Lebanese extraction, La Pistacherie should surely improve the standing of vegetable-based proteins in France, where, noted one reviewer, “they have never managed to be labeled anything other than canary food.”
Belying its name, La Pistacherie is not simply full of pistachios, though they are there, studding classic Middle Eastern sweets that always make me weak in the knees. They are joined by walnuts stuffed in dried figs, cashews, dried Turkish strawberries and a delicious tangy Ecuadoran fruit called physalis that the young salesman called “golden berries” among many other fruit and nut mixes.
On rue St. Anne near Opera, I discovered Epices Roellinger, a spice merchant hailing from St. Malo and Cancale, in Brittany. Its window display, with bundles of cinnamon sticks and jungle photos, was intriguing, but I started to pass it by, until I glimpsed a model ship in the middle of the store. Closer inspection took my breath away. The meter-long sailing ship was made entirely of whole cloves, even down to the little men on the ship. ”It comes from the Moluccan Islands, and dates to 1840,” said the sales clerk. After sating my fascination, I toured the shop’s many intriguing spices: grains of paradise from the Congo, a cross between ginger and pepper, saffron from Quercy, France (!), and vanilla from 10 different countries, from Uganda to Madagascar. I even got to sniff several! You can smell the differences.
Antique model clove ships, dried seed pod arrangements…all just part of the seductive Parisian art of marketing gourmandise!
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